Skip to content

How To Install a Torque Convertor Lockup Kit

How To Install a Torque Convertor Lockup Kit

Non-computer controlled automatic transmissions, specifically GM 200-4R and 700-R4 models, use electric solenoids to activate the lock-up feature on the torque convertor. At the appropriate time, as determined by the TV cable system, an electric signal is passed through a relay to the solenoid that engages the lock-up clutch. When this happens, the internal clutches on the convertor push forward to the internal flywheel, eliminating the built-in slip of the convertor. This can feel like small shift and you will see the engine speed drop 200-500 RPMs.

The lock-up feature is factory installed on vehicles with this transmission from the factory, but these popular automatics are regularly swapped into non-overdrive cars. In order to regain the lock-up feature, you need to wire it. There are ways of making your own kit, but if you use a torque convertor lockup kit like the Painless Performance system shown here, the process is greatly simplified and well worth it. Our local NAPA was more than happy to order the kit and it was in our hands in just a few days. One of the added benefits of the wiring kit is that it also gives you control of when the convertor locks up. You can add a switch to lock or unlock the convertor whenever you choose. If you are drag racing or towing, you want to leave the lock-up off, and other times when you may want to force it on. Regardless, if you want the choice, then you need one of these kits.

For documentation purposes, we installed the kit on a 200-4R transmission that was not installed in the vehicle. This torque convertor lockup kit is easily installed in the car as well, so don’t think you need to pull the trans, you can leave it in place and wire up the convertor.

The process starts with removing the pan. If you have a drain plug, drain it first. Most stock pans do not have drain plugs, so you will need to be careful. We suggest breaking all the bolts loose, removing most of them and leaving a few in the front of the pan. Break the seal of the gasket, and allow the fluid to drain. This way you won’t get soaked. The fluid will take a good 10 minutes to drain. Remove the pan.

Remove the bolts from the pan and use a screwdriver to separate the pan from the case. If you have not drained it, there will be a lot of fluid in the pan.
Remove the bolts from the pan and use a screwdriver to separate the pan from the case. If you have not drained it, there will be a lot of fluid in the pan.

With the pan off, you will see the filter, behind that is the valve body. The filter is held in place with an O-ring, pull on the filter with a twisting motion and it should pop out. Now is a great time to replace the filter.

This is the filter. Twist and pull to remove it.
This is the filter. Twist and pull to remove it.

You will see some wires running to a round flat pressure switch, this will be replaced by the switch included in the kit. Using a wrench, remove the switch and install the new one.

The factory switch may be a single pin or a dual pin switch.
The factory switch may be a single pin or a dual pin switch.

 

A wrench or socket is used to remove the switch.
A wrench or socket is used to remove the switch.

 

Then the new switch is threaded into the case.
Then the new switch is threaded into the case.

At the front passenger-side of the case, there is a solenoid retained by two bolts. Remove these bolts and replace them with the supplied studs.

This is the old solenoid. It is held in with two two bolts. Remove them and pull out the solenoid.
This is the old solenoid. It is held in with two two bolts. Remove them and pull out the solenoid.

Install the new solenoid supplied in the torque convertor lockup kit. The solenoid is retained by new nuts that thread onto the newly installed studs. The solenoid is longer than the original, which is why it needs the studs.

The new solenoid mounts with replacement studs instead of the bolts. These raise the solenoid properly.
The new solenoid mounts with replacement studs instead of the bolts. These raise the solenoid properly.

 

Install the solenoid and secured with the supplied nuts.
Install the solenoid and secured with the supplied nuts.

On the interior of the driver side of the case, the factory wiring port is located. Disconnect any plugs connected to the inside of the port.

Unplug the factory wiring pin from the case port.
Unplug the factory wiring pin from the case port.

 

Route the wires coming off the solenoid through the original wire clips, and attach the terminals to the new pressure switch and to the port on the side of the case.

Attach the terminals and route the wires through the original metal clips.
Attach the terminals and route the wires through the original metal clips.

Place the new gasket onto the case and reinstall the pan. The gaskets tend be a pain to install, get each bolt started and then move around the pan one by one. If the gasket slips inside the pan, use a pick to snag it and drag it back in place. Reinstall the pan and tighten the bolts in a criss-cross pattern.

The cork gasket that comes with the kit is the best type, paper gaskets are too thin and usually leak. Take care to ensure it stays in place.
The cork gasket that comes with the kit is the best type, paper gaskets are too thin and usually leak. Take care to ensure it stays in place.

The torque convertor lockup kit comes with a new brake switch. It is a direct replacement for stock GM brake switches. It has two sets of terminals, one for the brake lights and one for the transmission. The transmission terminal is the rear most set. The red wire connects to a 12v ignition source. The second length of purple wire connects to the other terminal on the new brake switch.

The new brake switch has two sets of terminals, the rear-most set is for the lock-up.
The new brake switch has two sets of terminals, the rear-most set is for the lock-up.

 

The purple wire connects to the open side of the port on the switch. The other terminals are for the brake lights.
The purple wire connects to the open side of the port on the switch. The other terminals are for the brake lights.

Connect the supplied plug in to the outside port on the transmission. This purple wire will control the operation of the converter. The other side of the purple wire connects to the vacuum module that installs as close to the engine as possible. This needs a vacuum line from the engine.

The plug connects to the transmission case and the vacuum switch mounts under the hood to manifold vacuum.
The plug connects to the transmission case and the vacuum switch mounts under the hood to manifold vacuum.

With the installation complete, you can now enjoy the benefits of your lock-up torque convertor. This installation typically takes 2-3 hours, depending on your skill level. Don’t forget to fill the transmission with new fluid before driving the vehicle.

Check out all the drivetrain products available on NAPA Online or trust one of our 17,000 NAPA AutoCare locations for routine maintenance and repairs. For more information on how to install a torque convertor lockup kit, chat with a knowledgeable expert at your local NAPA AUTO PARTS store.

Jefferson Bryant View All

A life-long gearhead, Jefferson Bryant spends more time in the shop than anywhere else. His career began in the car audio industry as a shop manager, eventually working his way into a position at Rockford Fosgate as a product designer. In 2003, he began writing tech articles for magazines, and has been working as an automotive journalist ever since. His work has been featured in Car Craft, Hot Rod, Rod & Custom, Truckin’, Mopar Muscle, and many more. Jefferson has also written 4 books and produced countless videos. Jefferson operates Red Dirt Rodz, his personal garage studio, where all of his magazine articles and tech videos are produced.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *